LED Lighting Ideas For Your Kitchen

The best kitchen lighting designs almost always use a lot of lighting, which doesn’t mean simply adding a few more ceiling rose fittings. Kitchen lighting demands different types of lighting for different zones. In fact, almost the worst way to light a kitchen is to put a few bright fluorescent tubes on the ceiling. You’ll certainly get bright light – but also flat, cold and certain to give you a headache in no time at all.

Clearly, a major problem with central ceiling roses in a kitchen is that they create dark spots and you are always casting your own shadow onto worktops. A popular solution is to fit a number of halogen down lights in a pattern in the ceiling to produce uniform general light and install extra lighting specifically for worktops and hobs etc.

This does indeed work quite well, but brings its own set of problem: halogen lamps run at very high temperatures; they don’t last well; and they are pretty much the most expensive possible way to light a kitchen. Over ninety percent of the cost of incandescent lighting in general (and halogen lamps in particular) is the electricity they consume.

This almost certainly accounts for the surge in popularity of low energy, low temperature LED kitchen lighting. With mains lighting (GU10 type fittings) it’s just a matter of replacing existing spotlights with their LED counterparts. For low voltage fittings (MR16 type), first replace regular 12v transformers with one (or possibly more, according to the number of lights) 12v constant voltage LED driver before switching to LED equivalent light bulbs.

The three main aspects to consider when installing LED spotlights are: luminosity (brightness); colour temperature (how cool/blue or warm/yellow); and beam angle. Try to match these as close as possible to the characteristics of the halogen lamps you might otherwise have considered using.

We are used to measuring brightness in terms of wattage, but an LED light bulb will have a wattage rating at least ten percent that of it’s equivalent incandescent or halogen bulb. Therefore, when replacing a 35w halogen lamp use an LED of 3w or above, and likewise replace a 50w with a 5w LED, etc.

How cool or warm a light appears is graded according to “color temperature”. LED lights come in a wide range of white color temperatures (not to mention actual “colors”), but historically it was easier to manufacture blue LEDs and hence many cheap LEDs exhibit a cold/bluish tint. However, if you specify warm white (technically a temperature below 3,500 Kelvins) you should get a fair approximation of the white light normally created by halogen lamps.

The more focused the beam angle is (i.e. 45 degrees) the more the light will appear tightly constrained to a single spot-like area; conversely wide angles (i.e. 120 degrees) disperse the light uniformly and reduce hot spots and glare. When looking for a good LED replacement for regular halogen lamps, the Sharp Zenigata LED spotlight is perhaps the top contender at present.

A critical component that determines how artificial light actually appears is not the light itself but the surface on which it is shining. To create a warm feel simply direct spot lights at warmly coloured areas (clay tiles, wood or just a wall painted in warm colours). If a dramatic effect is what you’re after, try shining blue LEDs at either dark or reflective surfaces – blue LED light bounced off granite or steel can appear stunning.

Use lights with differing characteristics against different textures and colors to obtain different effects in specific zones in the kitchen. There are so many options, especially with LED strip lighting systems for accenting plinths, coving, worktops and just about anything else you could think of. The best advice though is stick with just one or two ideas – you’ll be surprised how stunning even a modicum of LED kitchen lighting looks.